Molding the Bust

I spend quite a lot of time working on fitting my breasts. I'm a D cup and given my bra choice, balconnets, they're very prominent.

A couple of darts in a fitted top just won't do. I have to sculpt and mold the fabric and it's a great exercise in learning about sewing. For example:

The pattern is New Look 6586.


It took two muslins and a huge amount of tweaking to make the one dart for a B cup, to flatteringly fit me. I did a full bust adjustment on the first muslin. After trying it on, I kept on pinning out the extra fabric around the cup, while wearing it. When it finally looked right, I took off the bodice and realised I had pinned a very severe princess seam. I translated that to a second muslin for fine tuning and came up with the black and white dress. It's so wonderful to wear, like a second skin.

I also finally accepted that my fat areas are mainly from front to back, on the sides. So the side princess panel takes the most additions of fabric and the center front princess, very little.

The other time, I've taken the time to do this is for this camisole top:


This took several muslins too. It's from a year ago and I really should have gone further with the lower center portion, to get a clean and tight fit. And, by then I could have added underwires and been in a different territory all together.

I'm getting a glimmer of understanding of the 3D nature of sewing - something that really didn't affect me sewing for a slim C cup'd me. I guess I should look at gaining 50lbs as a cosmic learning opportunity. How bloody Zen!

Grain

Here is a neat illustration of why you should use straight of grain.











The top is from Hennes, rayon lycra for $10. I don't have to hang *my* head in shame. But it's super cute and easy to wear, in spite of the twist.

Btw, this is the first time I've had something so badly cut from Hennes, even though they're a cheap end shop.

Fall Colors

I've been working on clothes for autumn. Calling it a wardrobe is a little far-reaching. It's not so much a case of a SWAP - sewing a co-ordinated wardrobe of 11 units - but more a case of each piece matching the one before it.

I find myself more creative with color and texture when I do the latter. With SWAP's, I pick my 3 or so colors and then find it hard to bring in new or unexpected notes. Also with only working to match one to the one before, I can stop any time. Works much better for those of us with shorter attention spans.

I've made up the first two pieces:

The first piece is Vogue 8152, View B:The fabric is a very transparent mesh from Ressy's Yahoo co-op, that I double up for the bodice. In face the pattern is perfect for fabrics that can or need to be used doubled. The two bodices are sewn together at the neckline which gives a lovely clean finish. The sleeves I left one layer. It's still really see-through, so only nude bras will do.

The second piece is a russet linen skirt. I love the lines of this skirt from the current Marfy catalogue and I was really happy to find this pattern from Burda WOF, 6/06.


The silouhette of the skirt is so very good on me. But I'm wondering if the whole thing doesn't look too 'up-tight 40's secretary, after taking off her glasses and letting her hair down'. Heeheee. The shoes don't help, but I love them.

The next project lined up is an olive skirt that can go with the top and a striped rayon/linen to match the two skirts.

And a brown jacket to round things up.

I have too many sewing projects planned - for me as well as some for my little boy. I think I'll make a list here, to keep me more realistic. And more honest.

Everyone's blogging,

And I want to play too. It's mostly about sewing, knitting and a new life in New England.